About 140 km south of Seram Island and about 2,000 km east of Java, lies a volcanic group of ten small volcanic islands known as Banda Islands located on the Banda Sea. The Banda Islands are part of the Indonesian province of Maluku, Banda Neira being the main town and administrative centre as well as the name of the island itself. With a total land area of around 180km squared and a population of 15 000, the Banda Islands were once the world's only source of spices (nutmeg and mace) until the mid-19th century. Thankfully, there are daily flights from Ambon to Banda Neira. The Banda islands (in particular, Rhun island) was once the world's only source of nutmeg and mace, hence the name 'Spice Islands'.
Banda Neira Excursion
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A splendid view of the Banda Islands from the window seat while the pilot awaits the green light to land on the main islands' short landing strip.
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| The humble 30-seater plane ride from Ambon to Banda Neira. |
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Standing outside the VOC Governor's residence, 2nd from the right is Tanya Alwi , daughter to the late Des Alwi : the uncrowned king of Banda. As we lugged our baggage out of the airport, so happened she was sending her sister off to catch the next flight to Ambon, one of my travel buddies was an old classmate of hers. One thing led to another and we got into her personal car and was given a personal tour of Banda Neira. A very vibrant lady. |
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| Across the Hotel Maulana from which we stayed in (owned by Tanya Alwi's family), loomed Mt Merapi which erupted in 1988 and killed one sole Bandanese fisherman who chose not to evacuate his home when the first signs of an eruption came. |
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| Sign says it all |
Fort Belgica, constructed by Dutch East India Company to fortify the hill dominated by the Dutch in the early 17th Century, atop Banda Neira overlooking the sea. It was designed for an armament of 50 guns and a garrison of 400 men. Some of the cannons were still in place.
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| Took a boat across to the jetty on Pulau Gunung Api (literally meaning volcano island) and started hiking with torches at 6am. . It took 3 exhausting hours to hike up the steep volcano, and another 3 down. Not as easy as it seemed at first. Craggy peak of Mount Merapi providing a panoramic view. We sat on the peak for a good 15 minutes to enjoy the welcoming and well-deserved breeze. The Banda Neira landing strip can be seen on Pulau Neira. |
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| A glorious panoramic view at the top of the world! (must be a very small world of mine huh) |
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| Cheerful guide. (front) |
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On our day out to neighbouring islands Pulau Hatta , Pulau Pisang, Pulau Ai and Pulau Run for snorkeling.
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Sea around Pulau Rhun with its crystal clear water.
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Beach on Pulau Ai
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| View of Mt Merapi from the beach on Pulau Ai |
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| Crystal. |
Pulau Pisang.
Pulau Hatta ( across the Maulana Hotel on Banda Neira where i stayed )
The Banda Sea is calm throughout the day. Even when there are undercurrents, the sea is still less choppy in comparison to the South China Sea. The sea was as if a sheet of thin glass was laid hundreds of kilometres across. The snorkeling was of like no other in this world(at least the world of South-east Asia)
"Hello there"
Critters like these are unmissable. If fortune favours, you just might be able to catch the migratory spinner dolphins on calm Banda Sea waters by the dozens. As the boat was heading back to Hotel Maulana, pods of migratory spinner dolphins were cutting across the sea. Unfortunately, I was unable to snap photos of em as the camera battery was drained after a whole day off-shore. However, it was truly a warm sight to behold.
Sunset on Pulau Ai.
All in all apart from the infamous Bali island which is constantly overcrowded with tourists from four edges of the world, the Banda Islands are still untainted and yet to be fully explored or commercialized. An amazing and tranquil getaway from the hustle and bustle of city life. Banda Neira is in its own full of history and huge biodiversity of coral reefs, teeming with fish of all shapes and sizes of the Indonesian archipelago, which indeed is the world's largest. For all you ocean life lovers that wish to do simple snorkeling, or diving for the more adventurous, Banda Neira is the the perfect blend of serenity and paradise. I am really grateful to have been given the opportunity to experience such beauty of Mother Earth in the Indonesian spice islands. Do put this remote getaway in your list of 'places to visit before you die'.
Oh and whichever part of Indonesia you are in, do try the Indonesian Bakso !
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